Feature in Monsieur Magazine
Article: WELL DONE - MISTER TIE
Every day Michael Drake retraces the ancient Silk Road, creating very English ties that have made a breakthrough in Italians' hearts.
Drake's ties are all made rigorously by hand. In the opposite page, Michael Drake, 59 years, thoroughbred Londoner: His work has been rewarded with The Queen Award for Export (1985 and 2003) and with UK Fashion Exports Gold Award.
An encounter with a very English Man
"My two friends left the company, so I..."
The place where Mr. Drake lives, works, invents and creates is a different London. It is calm, away from the clamour of the great and throbbing metropolis, from places designated only for tourists. Here we are in the heart of Clerkenwell district, east of the City, once a symbolic quarter for art and crafts with a myriad of artisans' workshops, which today is "extremely trendy". The old buildings in red bricks have been converted, always in the most meticulous architectural and urban way, in elegant lofts much sought after and expensive. With time, opened various pubs, bars, clubs and restaurants, and flourished some of the most important art galleries...
I wanted to describe in great detail the location of the great shed that houses the workshop of the English tie par excellence, that sees in Michael Drake the undisputed prophet, the man that I met to discover the secrets of so much notoriety. The fame of Drake's ties, in fact, has long since crossed the Sleeve to rest on the necks of famous men all around the world.
And it's actually Michael, who over twenty years ago, like a real pioneer (assisted by his right hand and business partner Isabel Dickson) settled down with his company in these old London quarters, starting the way to that urban and commercial revaluation that I was hinting to earlier.
"It was a calculated decision", he explains, "I needed a spacious and quiet environment where one could work peacefully. The prices in the real estate market for this area where still accessible in those days." Today Drake's employ about forty full time staff who with great professionalism, under the attentive and vigilant eye of a nice supervisor, every day work to make one by one, obviously by hand, hundreds and hundreds of ties.
Apart from these employees, there are around fifty lady outworkers, working from home under the supervision of our workroom manageress. But lets return to our host. Particular signs? Above all, the charisma, that light and natural touch of class of an unmistakeable British brand that accompanies every single gesture despite his remarkable physical form, with an amenable smile, cordial, with a look on his face that seems to have stayed back in time. Instead, he's got some years on his back as well, fifty-nine to be precise. Well, I ask him, how have you managed to reach your goal?
"In an adventurous way" he replies, "I have frequented the London College of Fashion and, as a first job, I had the luck to join Aquascutum, where I've carried out a long and precious training that was decisive for my carrier. In that company, I've accomplished all the steps of an apprentice: I went from the production section to that of packaging, to sales, and finally to that of design, which was one of my biggest aspirations. Later on, from the Design Manager, an able and intelligent stylist, I've learnt all the secrets of the trade.
"Michael Drake personally takes care of the study of every colour combination"
When he left the company, his role as manager of the section was assigned to me. From that moment I took off and my destiny changed. It was a big leap in quality, but also a new and enormous responsibility..."
Yes, but how have you arrived to ties?
Michael smiles and narrates the second part of his adventure in life and work.
"In Aquascutum I had two dear friends and colleagues, one a sales manager, the other an export manager. First one, then the other, with just a short time in between, decided to leave the company and to open one of their own. I continued to meet with them in private. We spoke a lot about new ideas, new projects. In the end, I resigned as well; ready to face a new adventure with my two friends, though aware of the risks. In a few words, we made contact with an established Italian menswear company, which granted us the exclusive representation of its label in English speaking countries.
It was a very tough task for all of us. I, who knew and frequented the United States, for three or four years took care of that country crossing it far and wide, and for I don't know how many times, with my briefcase in hand that contained swatches of cloth and samples. It was a very tiring experience but exalting, which I cannot ever forget. After the menswear, we decided to dedicate ourselves to scarves..."
"75% of the silk used for Drake's ties is made in the UK, the remaining 25% arrives from Italy, in particular from Como. It is about a very particular silk, more matt and firm than the more traditional one."
"The Italian market is the most important of all"
"A beautiful business, that one. One year, we participated to a big fashion exhibition in Paris: in only 3 days we collected orders and reservations for £100,000! And thinking that we had predicted to earn a maximum of £10,000! It was in that very occasion that one client, observing the tie that I had on my neck, told me: 'I like it. Have you designed it yourself?' No, I replied, and he added: 'Why don't you start making them yourself too?' I accepted the challenge and I started working on the task. The new adventure started two years later, and here I am."
And, so, we'll give only some hint: for example, what type of material you use, where you find it, who designs the fabrics...
"I'll start from the last question: the design, the combination of colours, have my signature and I'm proud of it. Collaborating with me, I have a few and valuable staff of professionals. With regards to fabric, we favour above all silk, printed, and something that maybe not everyone knows, 75% of it is made in the UK. It is a particular silk, more matt and firm that the one traditionally used. The rest we import from Italy and from Como in particular. We trust only a few selected suppliers."
"For me British style means not giving in to compromise," says Drake
I was reflecting on the fact that you had the courage to enter the Italian market and in little time to conquer it. Can you explain to me how you've accomplished it?
"When I started to dedicate myself to scarves and ties, my experience was in particular on export. My attention was turned to America, to France, and above all, to Italy, that because of tradition and style, dictates the law in this field, and so it is very difficult to win. Anyway, selling my silk ties to Italians was for me a big challenge. I think that what really made a breakthrough above the rest was the quality of the English silk. The first Italian clients thought immediately that our product represents the true image of the British look. I established, therefore, a relationship with many Italian shops, elegant and well known, to which I brought the image and the tradition of my country. So for us, the Italian market became the undisputed first and most important one of all."
It is really amazing... just Italy, the unquestioned homeland of the silk knot... Well-done Mr. Drake!
It's time to leave. I would like to continue the pleasant conversation with this simpatico and intelligent specimen of an English man, enthusiastic about work and life, that always thinks of new challenges. I would like to know more about his next women's collection, yes, because, I haven't told you, he has decided to widen the horizon even to the other half, or maybe more. Scarves, woollen throws, cotton or cashmere, gloves, socks, shirts: the lady is served!
Before saying goodbye, I throw the last question: dreams about the future? He looks at me, smiles for the umpteenth time and says: "I want to have fun, widen the Japanese market even more, develop the women's range more. Staying loyal to my choices in quality without ever giving in to compromise."
More than a dream, in reality, for me it seems something concrete: they are commitments for the next 50 years! I come out in the fine London rain. I don't know why, but I thought about another Drake, Sir Francis, navigator and leader in the 500s. With his ship, the Golden Hind, he achieved, first amongst the Englishmen, the voyage around the world. It isn't a small thing, don't you think? That perhaps the nice Michael has the intention of seizing the fame of his glorious ancestor?
"The ties ready to be delivered to the client, one part of Drake's production is labelled with brands of famous Italian retailers, but also of American, French and Japanese. Proof that British style still dictates the laws around the world."
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This article features Drakes Ties.